Key takeaways
- Start wide, then go close: the overall scene first, then each car, then each damage.
- Photograph before the cars are moved, if it’s safe, and keep the original files.
- A slow walk-around video captures the whole scene in one take.
- Don’t edit, filter or crop: an untouched file with its date and place is more credible.
After a crash, the other driver’s version of events can change overnight. Photos don’t. Insurers, police officers and, if it comes to that, judges rely on pictures more than on anyone’s memory. You don’t need a professional camera: a smartphone is enough if you know what to shoot. Safety always comes first: never stand in traffic to take a photo.
The 12 shots to take
- The whole scene from a distance, showing both cars and the road.
- The same scene from the opposite side.
- Each car’s position relative to lane markings, the kerb or the junction.
- The direction each car was coming from, shot from behind each one.
- The point of impact on each car, close up.
- All other damage, with something for scale (a hand, a key).
- Both number plates, readable.
- Road signs and traffic lights that applied: stop, give way, speed limit.
- Skid marks, debris and fluid on the road.
- The road surface and weather: wet road, potholes, low sun, darkness.
- Obstacles to visibility: a parked van, a hedge, a bend.
- Documents: the other driver’s insurance certificate and licence, if they agree.
Add a short video
A 30 to 60 second video, filmed while slowly walking around the scene, shows distances and positions better than a dozen photos. Narrate softly if you like: “this is the junction, the give-way line is here, the grey car stopped here.” Keep the camera steady and don’t zoom quickly.
At night or in bad weather
Turn on the flash for close-ups of damage, but turn it off for wide shots, which otherwise come out black. Use the street lights and headlights. Hold still, lean against something, and take several shots of each view. If it’s raining, photograph the wet road too: it matters for braking distances.
Keep your photos credible
- Leave location and time stamps on: they show when and where the picture was taken.
- Don’t apply filters, crop or retouch. If you need an edited version for a report, keep the original as well.
- Back up the files the same day. A phone dropped in the crash or stolen later takes your evidence with it.
- Don’t post the photos on social media: they may show other people, and public comments can harm your claim.
Photos of other people’s faces and plates are personal data in many countries. Use them for your claim or complaint, and don’t share them publicly. See /blog/is-it-legal-to-film-an-incident/.
How Chameleon AI protects your photos
When you photograph an incident with Chameleon AI, each file gets a SHA-256 fingerprint the moment it’s taken, with the time and the place. It’s then encrypted on your device: an edited copy would no longer match its fingerprint, which helps show your evidence hasn’t been changed (read /blog/digital-evidence-fingerprint-sha256-explained/). The app also gives tips on what to film, and later the AI links each key moment in its report to the second it happens in your video.
Frequently asked questions
How many photos should I take after an accident?
More than you think: twenty to forty is normal. Storage is cheap, and you can’t go back to the scene once the cars are gone.
Is it legal to photograph the other car and its driver?
Photographing vehicles, plates and the scene for an insurance claim is generally accepted. Filming people is regulated differently by country: avoid close-ups of faces unless necessary, and never publish them.
Can screenshots or edited photos be used?
They can, but they carry less weight. Insurers and courts prefer original files with their metadata (date, time, sometimes place). Always keep the originals.
General information to help you get organised, not legal advice. Procedures and numbers can change: confirm them with the office concerned, and in danger call your local emergency number first.
